I'm interested in the quotation thing. The last time we spoke, just before your book came out (Schirmer/Mosel 1994), we were talking about you coincidentally stumbling across old Nova magazines from the late 60s-early 70s and become inspired. This was the time you started quoting literally from pre-existing imagery. A few months back you published a series with Jodi Kidd which seemed very Sam Haskins-like, very Cowboy Kate... Are you still literally picking and deciding to reinterpret certain photographers or series?

I did that for a while. I started to do it because I needed a kick off point personally, and also to make the actual thing turn around, to make them desirable as fashion images. They (Vogue) needed something to make the magazine sell, to make the industry exciting, and to have a love for itself. One of the ways to do that was to take a thing that nobody was interested in at that time - that kind of ringflash glamour photography of the 70s - and update it. So that's what we did, and basically continued to do for the next year and a half.

And so did a lot of people after you!

Yes, that's the luck of hitting on the right thing at the right time. But nobody else was doing it then, and when it came out everybody was like, 'Oh my God'. Vogue slapped it on the cover with the 'Glamour is Back' headline - and it worked. Makeup started to sell, people suddenly wanted to glam up. And as a reaction to that we're now seeing a moment of all things natural, although with a certain glamour. Fashion usually works in opposites: Glamour as a reaction to Grunge, Minimalism reacting to Glamour, etc...