Laylines, or standing stones, or songlines aside, the shady mauve and wood-panneled store is indeed some kind of magic place; a druids' cave to which initiates flock to procure their exotic elixirs. Part rarefied eighteenth-century folly, part pared-down temple of Zen, inside, the black-clad assistants glide silently by, occasionaly dipping paper tapers into some new fragrance to be tried. If a place can incarnate a person, the Shiseido boutique is its creator Serge Lutens. In fact, since Lutens took over the artistic direction of Shiseido in 1980, his image and that of the massive Japanese makeup manufacturer have become inextricably interwoven. But then, Serge Lutens seldom leaves anyone indifferent. When he first strode into Vogue in 1963, the Lille-born country boy found himself instantly engaged to work on the makeup, hair and accessories for that year's Christmas issue. Never one for half measures, he spent an entire night sticking black and coloured pearls to the faces of two models, rendering them glinting, precious apparitions. Elegance, luxury, rarity and a touch of "Perfume is the reflection of what you are yourself." irreverence would remain keynotes of Serge Lutens' score for the years to come. When, in 1968, Dior offered Lutens the chance to develop the company's image and create their makeup lines, the then 27 year old accepted. It was to be a long collaboration, and it was during this time that the romantic young man developed a fascination for the exotic, mystical world of Morocco. By the time he took up the position of international creative director at Shiseido, Lutens was spending much time in Ben Youssef, the medina of Marrakech, and the rich orientalism of the place was increasingly pervading his sense of European refinement. All these elements would combine to create an image for Shiseido that went way beyond just 'japanese', becoming instead something universally exotic, mysterious and rare. As I savour the unplaceable scent of Myrrhe, the perennially sombre Serge Lutens enters this place of his own creation. It is instantly obvious that all this is no mere marketing strategy. It is a direct reflection of this curious man who seems one part slick silent movie star to one part Wizard of Oz. Neither shaken, nor stirred, it's like he comes from another time or place. c o n t i n u e